![]() sand smooth and you will never know where it was. Since it is narrow and everything else around it is rock solid, you can simply fill the cut with your MIG or stick welder. Certain to get the OCD visitor into a cold sweatĪt risk of getting stoned, once you have your radius done, that cut will still be visible but much more shallow. it somehow conveys the concept that a perfectly straight crisp 90 degree edge is a requirement.īy the way I like the off centre bolting down provision of that Fisher. I sincerely don't know why manufacturers don't supply anvils with a small radius. It is crisp edges from factory that cause most chips, well that and carelessness. Radius is personal preference, but certainly necessary. by others info, I guess its from 1905-1908. 27 on the side of the surface opposite the horn. Addition stampings of 42815 on face opposite the manufacturer information. Basically a generous gift Serial number 160546 162 lbs. And have a smaller even radius on the other side. Just picked up a Hay-Budden from a friend. They have tool steel faces and horn top surface. They are great anvils, and quiet to work on due to the cast iron body. Any thoughts on that plan?ĭepending on what you do on it, may be worth having a radius that starts as it is now and goes down gradually to nothing at the other end. 150 Fisher anvil, they shorthanded the weight markings on some, that is why it is marked 15. The left side is in much better condition, so I may sand a 3/32" or so radius on it. It would clean up nearly everything but the cut mark. I had considered continuing that radius the entire length of the right side. The federal eagle was not a welcome sight below the Mason-Dixon line during the reconstruction period.įrom the same source, I learned of another form of anvil abuse called "firing the anvil" - using a powder charge to fling an anvil skyward during various celebrations.The guy I bought it from dressed that corner. The Fisher & Norris works in Trenton made anvils without their eagle trademark to fufull this demand in the Southen states. Cutting the horn from an anvil was no small feat since a typical horseshoer's anvil weighed around 150 pounds, while many blacksmith's anvils intended for a greater range of work weighed up to 800 pounds. This caused a demand for anvils after the unpleasantness was over. Not many Fisher anvils are their exact advertised weight. Fisher probably intended them to be 200 lbs +/. I do not have that pattern in the collection I wish I did. The preferred method was knocking the feet off the anvil off with a sledge. Did the dimensions of mine match yours The anvils look identical and were probably made from the same pattern. For example an old English system written 324 would be three times 112 plus 2x28 plus 4 pounds. Key Takeaways Look for stamped weights, lugs, and round horns to spot old, handmade anvils easily. The first number is 112 ,the SECOND is fourths of that (28) so the second cant be over three or it would be moved to first spot. Have heard that during the Civil War, the two sides would vandalize any anvils they found in the opponent's territory on the basis that they could be used to make or mend war material or cavalry horseshoes. if it is old English system the second number cant be 4. Just exactly how a non-flawed anvil could get broken in this fashion is unclear to me unless somebody pounded a wedge-shaped object into the hardie hole. The other was a small-ish one, probably originally a 100-pounder, used as a doorstop at an antique shop in Whitehall or Fort Ann, NY. The first '1' is one Hundredweight (112lbs), the second '1' is a quarter of a hundredweight (28 lbs), the 3rd digit is the pounds. "They broke an anvil" - oddly enough, this is the second anvil broken through the hardie hole that I've seen in my lifetime. The 1.1.20 indicates the weight in the old english system your anvil originally weighed 160 pounds. (Having written that, I'll be embarrassed if my take on it is totally wrong.) Your screen name is good - I take it as a take-off on "Gadzooks" with a CAD slant. Noting that is your Post #1, welcome to the PM community. ![]()
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